Things you may not know about canned food in HK

Published : 2025-01-03

Author︰Wah Sze-Chi

For modern people, canned food could mean "unhealthy," but canned food was actually invented for the sake of health.

The most notable canned food in Hong Kong today must be "Fried Dace Fish with Salted Black Beans" (豆豉鯪魚), as it was the first canned food produced nationwide.

When was canned food invented? Let's take a look back at the interesting history of canned food and what it has experienced in Hong Kong.

Canned food was promoted by Napoleon over 200 years ago

Luncheon meat, Fried Dace Fish with Salted Black Beans, Spiced Pork Cubes (五香肉丁)……These affordable and delicious canned food is commonly stocked in many Hong Kong households.

Speaking of canned food, it actually dates back to 1804, making it over 200 years old. Its invention is largely attributed to the famous French military leader Napoleon.

Looking back at the late 18th century, the ever-campaigning Napoleon was often plagued by a particular problem: how to get food to the frontline soldiers without it spoiling. He even offered a prize of 12,000 francs for a solution to this problem.

Eventually, a chef named Nicolas Appert discovered that sealing food in glass containers and heating them would prevent spoilage!

This method of glass canning is considered the ancestor of today's canned food. Appert later successfully claimed the prize money and established a canning factory to produce military rations for the French army.

However, the person who truly popularised canned food was British merchant Peter Durand.

His significant achievement was the development of tin cans made from thin tin-iron alloy, for which he obtained a patent. This innovation allowed the British military to start using canned rations in 1813.

The picture shows citizens buying canned food at the 25th The Silver Jubilee Exhibition of Hong Kong Products in 1967 at the Tung Chun Soy Sauce booth. (Image Source: Hong Kong Memory/ Information Services Department)

Western canned food doesn't suit Chinese tastes

The 19th century was marked by international turmoil and constant warfare, leading to a sharp increase in global canned food production. More factories opened, and canned food became increasingly popular.

The history of canned food in Hong Kong dates back to the 19th century, introduced along with British troops and foreign merchants.

Nowadays, Hong Kong's canned food market is dominated by domestically produced goods, but in the early 19th century, it primarily sold foreign canned food.

At that time, canned foods were mainly represented by companies like Dairy Farm (牛奶公司) and Lane Crawford, then wholesaled and distributed by local brokerages.

However, Western canned foods never quite suited Chinese tastes, creating opportunities and market space for local canned food manufacturers.

Before local and mainland canned goods entered the market, Hong Kong primarily sold foreign canned food. — The image shows a canned food advertisement from Dairy Farm in 1951. (Image source: "Impressions of Grocery Stores: Hong Kong Story – Canned Food, Foreign Liquor, and Groceries Then and Now")

The advertisement for Cow & Gate condensed milk(牛欄牌煉奶) in 1953 features a small text in the bottom left corner stating that "condensed milk has the same nutritional value as human milk". — The advertisement for Cow & Gate condensed milk (牛欄牌煉奶) in 1953. (Image source: "Impressions of Grocery Stores: Hong Kong Story – Canned Food, Foreign Liquor, and Groceries Then and Now")

The image shows the advertisement of Libby's Tomato Juice Pork and Beans(茄汁豬肉豆) in 1954, represented by Dodwell & Co., Ltd. (Image source: "Impressions of Grocery Stores: Hong Kong Story – Canned Food, Foreign Liquor, and Groceries Then and Now") Dodwell & Co., Ltd.

HK produced over 6,000 tonnes of canned food annually in 1970s

According to The Hong Kong & Kowloon Provisions, Wine & Spirit Dealers' Association Limited, the first recorded canned food manufacturer in Hong Kong was Cheung Fat Company (祥發罐頭公司), established in 1922.

It is known that early production primarily focused on canned fruits. Unfortunately, there are no images or advertisements related to Cheung Fat Company that can be found online.

In the peak period of the 1970s, Hong Kong had more than 30 canned food factories, mainly producing canned vegetable such as mushrooms, asparagus, and water chestnuts (荸薺). The annual production at one point reached over 6,000 tonnes, with a value of up to HKD 25 million.

However, most of these local products were exported to Europe and United States, while the local consumption mainly relied on canned imports from Mainland China. As factories relocated north, locally produced canned goods became increasingly rare in Hong Kong.

Luncheon meat was born in the United States in 1937. During the Great Depression(經濟大蕭條), World War II or the Korean War in the 1950s, luncheon meat was the staple food. — The image shows an advertisement for Danish Plumrose brand (玟李牌) canned food in 1972. (Image source: "Impressions of Grocery Stores: Hong Kong Story – Canned Food, Foreign Liquor, and Groceries Then and Now")

The image shows an advertisement for The Oriental Soy & Canning Co., Ltd.(香港東方醬油罐頭有限公司) in 1941. In the bottom right corner, it includes the phrase "Increase rear production for the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, Overseas Chinese please promote authentic national goods". (Image Source: Hong Kong Memory)

This publication from 1958 was published by Commerce and Industry Department in Hong Kong Government. The article introduces that Hong Kong's canneries imported advanced equipment from Europe and the United States, making the production process hygienic. — This publication from 1958 introduces that Hong Kong's canneries imported advanced equipment from Europe and the United States, making the production process hygienic. (Image Source: Hong Kong Memory / Hong Kong Public Records Office)

First canned food in the Mainland was produced in Guangzhou

The first canned food factory in Mainland China, established in 1893, was called Kwong Mou Heung Food Product Company Limited (廣茂香食品有限公司). The first canned food launched was Fried Dace Fish with Salted Black Beans, which remains a popular choice for many today.

Once upon a time, canned food was a luxury in the Mainland China. Due to its high price, during the early years after the start of Reform and Opening-up, only a few families could afford canned food. It was only opened for celebration when hosting guests or during special occasions.

However, as the economy improved and mass production scaled up, canned food gradually became a staple for the general public.

During Planned Economy, the production of domestic canned food was led by the state. The state collected crops from farmers and supplied them to factories for production. The picture shows the production of Fried Dace Fish with salted black beans. — During the period of Planned Economy, the production of domestic canned food was led by the state. The picture shows the production of fried dace fish with salted black beans in the early years. (Web Image)

China is world's largest canned food exporters

Currently, China is not only the world's largest producer of canned food but also the largest exporter, accounting for about a quarter of the global output.

According to data released by the China Canned Food Industry Association at 2023, the national export volume of canned food reached 3.125 million tonnes in 2022, with about 93,000 tonnes absorbed by Hong Kong.

Apart from the U.S., Japan, Russia, South Korea, and Italy, Hong Kong is the sixth largest export market for canned food from the Mainland.

In fact, when the People's Republic of China (PRC) was established in 1949, the national output of canned food was less than 500 tonnes.

However, the relationship between canned food and war is inseparable.

In 1950, in response to the outbreak of the Korean War, the number of canned food factories in China surged. Due to the U.S. and the UN embargo on China, Hong Kong as a free port became an important export and re-export market for Chinese canned food.

At that time, as domestic canned food was not well-known in Hong Kong, some national product companies frequently held promotional activities such as the "Chinese Food Festival".

Additionally, the influence of celebrities also helped introduce these canned food into Hong Kong households successfully.

The first canned food factory in Mainland China was called Kwong Mou Heung Food Product Company Limited. In the 1950s, it became Guangdong Canning Factory and ceased production in 2009. Then, It was transformed into a cultural and creative industrial park "Redtory" and was closed in 2019. — The first canned food factory in Mainland China was called Kwong Mou Heung Food Product Company Limited(廣茂香食品有限公司) and the world's first can of Fried Dace Fish with salted black beans was born here. The factory ceased production in 2009 and was transformed into a cultural and creative industrial park "Redtory"(紅專廠). However, this site was closed in 2019. (Image Source: VCG)

Canned food has been embedded in Hong Kong culture

Nowadays, many canned food have become part of Hong Kong culture and collective memory.

A classic meal of a "luncheon meat and egg sandwich," a bowl of "Ding noodles" (instant noodles with spiced pork cubes), paired with a cup of Hong Kong-style milk tea, represents the most authentic local dining experience.

In the past, canned food were often seen as cheap. However, as living standards have improved, canned food has started to take a high-end route: luncheon meat made from Iberico (黑毛豬), lobster soup costing hundreds of dollars per can, and exquisite canned abalone, are all readily available.

In response to consumers' health concerns, low-sugar, low-sodium, and additive-free canned food have also become more common.

Canned food no longer just means "unhealthy", but is now a convenience food that can be used in a healthy way, in a variety of ways.